Which Ingredients Should You Look For In Your
Moisturising Products?
A good moisturiser for your skin should be hydrating, nourishing and refreshing. Knowing the right ingredients for your skin will help you pick out the best moisturising products. 1.
Emollients
Emollients
Emollients are cosmetic ingredients that lubricate
the skin, ranging from lightweight
fluids to thick creamy formulations . They prevent water loss from the skin and
possess smoothing and protective qualities.
Emollients help the skin to retain its
moisture and provide a silky, shiny finish. Non-fragrant plant oils can serve
as emollients. Other emollients include coconut oil, cocoa butter, mango
butter, shea butter, and evening primrose oil.
2.
Occlusives
Occlusives are
substances that help to lock moisture into the skin . They form a protective
barrier on the skin to ensure that water drawn into the skin is retained.
Occlusives to watch out for in your products are: Coconut oil, Beeswax, Cetyl
alcohol, Shea butter and Jojoba oil . Remember that occlusives are not
moisturisers, they only seal the moisture into the skin.
3.
Humectants
Humectants draw water
from the atmosphere and the underlying skin layers to the topmost surface of
the skin . In simple terms, they draw moisture into your outer skin. However,
humectants must be combined with emollients and occlusives in order to retain
skin moisture and repair the skin barrier . Humectants include Aloe, Honey,
Hyaluronic acid, Propylene glycol, and Glycerin.
4.
Antioxidants
Antioxidants
provide essential benefits to the skin, key
among which is fighting free radicals. They help in relieving dry skin caused
by environmental factors such as excessive sun exposure and harsh winds. Free
radicals and environmental factors can hamper the skin’s ability to retain
moisture.
Antioxidants
protect the surface of the skin from more damage
and boosts its ability to replenish itself. They also work to reduce visible
signs of ageing like age spots, fine lines and wrinkles. Potent antioxidants to
watch out for in your moisturiser include: resveratrol, grape extract,Green
tea extract, vitamin E, vitamin C, licorice extract, and ferulic acid.
5.
Sunscreen
Prolonged sun
exposure can wreck your skin, affecting its
ability to retain moisture and replenish itself. That’s why you need sunscreen
even on cloudy days and during the winter. Many skin care experts have stated
that sunscreen is the most essential skincare product. Moisturisers with
built-in sunscreen are available. Choose a moisturiser that has a
broad-spectrum sunscreen with a minimal rating of SPF 30+.
But all sunscreens are not the same, some
ingredients may act as hormone disruptors. Check your product label for insoluble sun filters that have large
particle sizes and are not absorbed by the skin.
Insoluble sun filters include:
●
Tinosorb S
(bisoctrizole)
●
Zinc oxide
●
Tinosorb M
(bemotrizinol)
●
Tinosorb A2B
(tris-biphenyl triazine)
6.
Preservatives
Your moisturiser needs preservatives
especially if it contains water. This is because water can provide a good
breeding ground for bacteria and other microorganisms. A lack of preservatives
could also reduce the effectiveness of the moisturiser.
Opt for products
containing these preservatives:
●
Essential oils
such as tea tree oil, rosemary, neem oil.
●
Food-grade
preservatives like potassium sorbate and sodium benzoate
●
Alcohols like
witch hazel
●
Gluconolactone, a
plant-based preservative
●
Phenoxyethanol
and dehydroacetic acid which are synthetic preservatives.
Which Ingredients Should You Avoid?
Just as there are ingredients to actively
covet in your moisturiser, certain ingredients should be avoided. These
ingredients can irritate your skin or worse, have carcinogenic properties.
1.
Fragrances
Artificial
fragrances can be pleasant,
cloying or downright nasty. Many scented moisturising products contain
fragrances to provide a nice smell. Unfortunately, many fragrances may act as
skin irritants and may cause itching,
burning, and rashes.
2.
Mineral Oil
Mineral oil
is used as an occlusive in moisturising products. It creates a smooth,
silky effect on the skin. Mineral oil forms a seal on the skin meant to seal in
moisture, but it does it too well.
Mineral oils trap in so much moisture that the skin becomes excessively
moist. Over time, this can damage the skin’s lipid barrier and cause water
loss. Note that mineral oil is called different names on cosmetic products,
including petroleum oil, liquid petroleum, paraffin oil, petrolatum,
petrolatum liquid, paraffinum liquidum, white oil and liquid paraffin
3.
Parabens
Parabens are a group of chemicals used as preservatives
in many cosmetics. The use of parabens as preservatives has sparked many
controversial debates. Parabens have been linked to hormone disruption. It has
been postulated that they may be carcinogenic with links to breast cancer.
4.
Synthetic Dyes
Synthetic dyes
are used to give cosmetic products distinct
and attractive colours. But, the chemicals contained in these dyes can
irritate the skin and trigger allergic reactions. Skincare experts also suspect
some of them might be carcinogenic.
5.
Silicones
Silicones are man-made substances
that create a smooth, velvety touch. Cosmetics companies use silicones in
products like moisturisers and primers for two main reasons. Firstly, they are
cheap occlusives, meaning that they create a film over the skin that traps in
moisture. Unfortunately, silicones work over-time and seal in not only moisture
but also dirt, bacteria, oil and dead skin cells . They end up clogging the
skin and precipitating skin breakouts. Secondly, silicones fill out skin flaws
and give an instant smooth finish through their skin coating action . This
coating effect could affect the skin’s natural shedding process and slow down
turnover. This could lead to drier skin in the long-term.
Conclusion
Choosing a good moisturiser can take some time, but make sure to
properly research the ingredients . The right ingredients will promote healthy
skin but the wrong ones can irritate your skin and even disrupt your skin
barrier . Using the guidelines above should make the selection
process easier.